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How to Use a crop Needle on Finches
by 
Kathy Dezern

 
When finches fall ill, they need as much supportive care as we can provide which includes supplemental crop feeding and/or administering medications. Knowing how to use a crop needle is critical for treating sick birds. Hopefully this sequence of photographs will be more useful than a description alone to help you learn how to use a crop needle.
An 18 gauge size crop needle or smaller is needed for finches.The most difficult part is getting a finch to open his mouth, sometimes the finch will bite at the crop needle when you place it near his beak and you can slide it in, other times you may need an assistant to open its mouth for you.
Before inserting the crop needle make sure you have filled the crop needle itself with the liquid from the syringe, otherwise you will push the air that was in in the crop needle into the birds crop. While this isn't harmful you need to take advantage of all of the available crop space for food, not air.

 
You need to extend the bird's head and neck upward by pushing your thumb under it's mandible.
 
Direct the crop needle towards the bird's right side, the needle will automatically go into the crop. Keep your thumb positioned over the right side of the bird's neck and you will be able to feel the needle as it goes down. This crop needle is just shy of being 1 1/2 inches long. Notice in the photo that you can insert it almost the full length into the crop, which you should do. The deeper you are in the crop the larger amount of liquid you can deliver.
If you insert it too shallow then the liquid will quickly begin to come back up thru the mouth.The photo on the left illustrates how to both hold the bird and push the syringe at the same time. Always use a 1cc (Tuberculin) size syringe for finches, you can not maintain slow enough delivery with a larger syringe.
Here the bird's feathers have been
wetted back so the crop can be
visualized. The crop is so thin that
you can clearly see the crop
needle and see that the crop is
completely empty. Notice where
my thumb is positioned, normally
the feathers would be obstructing
this view but I would be able to feel
the hub of the needle against my
thumb.
 The fluid should be delivered very
slowly. If delivered too quickly it
will come back up thru the mouth.
I usually push in about a 0.05 ml
or less at a time. Then pause for
about two seconds and push
another 0.05 ml. I have found that
this method of pushing a tiny
amount at a time, then pausing
allows me to give overall a greater
amount of fluid at a time. It gives
time for the fluid to settle at the
bottom of the crop and make a
pocket. Note the tear drop shape
outline of the pink fluid in this
photo. If the same amount is
given rapidly, the crop tends to fill
with an even columnar shape and
doesn't expand at the bottom,
thereby holding a smaller volume
of fluid. In addition much is usually
forced back up to the mouth
during a rapid delivery..
Here the crop is full, compare it to
the photo on the right. I have found
that 0.5 (1/2) ml is about the
maximum amount that can be
delivered at a time.
Remove the crop needle very
slowly, if you pull it out rapidly you
will also pull up fluid with it.
If you begin to overfill or deliver too
rapidly and fluid comes up thru the
mouth, just stop delivering but do
not pull the crop needle out in
haste. Again just pull it out very
slowly.
The crop needle and syringe
should be flushed throughly with
water to clean it. You should then
boil them both for ten minutes to
sterilize before the next use.
If you are not familiar with syringes and milli-liters (ml) and cubic centimeters (cc). Here's mini-lesson for you. First, a ml and a cc are the exact same unit of measurement. So 1 cc is the same as 1 ml. This is a photo of a 1 cc syringe, often called tuberculin syringe. This is the size you need for crop feeding. A 1/2 (0.5) ml is the total volume you can
usually give at one time. It is marked as 0.5 on the syringe. When administering, push 0.05 ml at a time and pause a second or two between pushes.
© Kathy Dezern 2001               See more of KAthy's great photos at Finchfancier.com
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